If you wish to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and in fact see what's going on. Once upon a time, this involved spending considerable money. Now there are probably half a dozen out there that are eminently inexpensive. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is two separate tasks. First, you get to handle powder fouling. Second, you have to get rid of copper fouling. Only then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning products out there. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods. They can be found in.
Take your spot rod, and put three solvent patches up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper occasionally, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and swellings and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent spot up the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, however if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.
As a rule, the more you spend on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. I have actually had one or two cases where a barrel all of a sudden began to group as I reached the end of the process, but I've had far more break-ins that made no distinction at all.
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They work, sometimes, however if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore however good, and considering that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I'm unwilling to take the chance. Likewise, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their firearms going bang. They desire them immaculate. And spotless is an excellent way to go.
The steps to correctly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field stripping or total disassembly. We'll cover standard field removing in this post. Due to the variety of rifles, complete disassembly of the gun aren't within the scope of this post. This is the most crucial action in the whole cleaning process.
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, and eliminate any loose particles that may be discovered within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One typical myth is that more is much better when it concerns lubrication of your gun. You desire to properly oil where needed, but excessive can lead to excessive residues, which can lead to breakdowns and handling concerns (slippery). Lubing cloths are an exceptional tool due to the fact that they help control the quantity of oil/lubrication being used in any offered area of your weapon.
The treatment is easy. Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to avoid any solvent gathering near the actionsee Step 1.) Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that getting rid of copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit once again, and repeat. If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again and repeat. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of speak about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.
What you do not want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. When you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry patches down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have actually been wet with a routine cleaning solvent. Run 3 or four dry spots down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.